Ford Focus Stereo Wiring Manual Transfer

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Design & Installation Services. Specials. Outlet. Articles & Videos. I've been with Crutchfield since 1999, where I began as one our advisors, helping our customers choose new gear.

After a couple of years, I moved to the writing team where I spent a decade researching new products and getting hands on with car stereos, amplifiers, speakers, and subs. Yeah, I've been doing this for a while. For the past few years, I've been the managing editor of Crutchfield's Car A/V web article content. I couldn't ask for a better job — we get to play with car audio gear every day!

I'm a Virginia native from the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Outside of work, I love listening to music, playing board games, and installing new audio systems for my friends. More from Robert Ferency-Viars. In a Nutshell Car stereo installation basics — In this article, we'll walk you through the process of installing a new car stereo. We'll cover:. How to remove the factory stereo.

How to wire the new receiver — what you need to know to connect it right. How to install the new car stereo Please read over these guidelines before beginning the installation so you'll know what to expect. Full Story Get your toolbox You'll need a few tools to get the job done, but nothing serious. A couple of screwdrivers and a wrench or socket set for the battery cable are most common. You’ll also need some wire strippers, electrical tape, and a way to make wiring connections – which we’ll cover later. One of the more important tools you'll need is a to help you safely remove the dash panels without scratching the surfaces or breaking anything.

Removing the factory stereo When installing a new stereo in your car, your first step will be to remove the old stereo. It would be easy to breeze through the removal steps and forget them. But don’t rush! You’ll want to make sure you remember the sequence of these steps, since you’ll be reversing this process to install a new stereo. For detailed information on how to remove the factory stereo that's specific to your vehicle, refer to your, which walk you through the process step-by-step.

Otherwise, you may use the general guidelines below. These instructions are free with a car stereo purchase, or you can purchase them separately for $9.99. Using MasterSheet instructions with the general guidelines below will prove to be a winning combo. Before you begin, start by setting the parking brake and removing the negative cable from the car battery to prevent accidentally short circuiting something. Your factory stereo will most often be mounted in one of the following ways:. secured in a metal mounting sleeve by spring clips.

bolted to the dash with brackets. mounted to a rail system inside the dash Removing a spring-clip mounted radio If the stereo is held in by spring clips, you'll need a pair of DIN tools. Insert the DIN tools into the holes on either side of the unit until you hear a click.

The tools serve to release the spring clips and also hook onto the sides of the stereo so that you can pull it out easily. Spread the tools apart slightly then pull the stereo out of the dash. Removing a stereo attached to a rail system Some vehicle manufacturers mount the factory radio to a guide rail inside the dash. Once the spring clips or bolts are removed, you can slide the radio off of the rail. Because this rail can sometimes interfere with the chassis of a new radio, it may have to be removed too.

Something to keep in mind: once this is done, you often cannot reinstall the factory radio. Stereos for older cars American cars built before the early 1980s often came with a 'shaft-style' stereo, which secured to the dash via nuts and washers to the right and left knobs. A shaft-style stereo must be installed from behind the dash. Getting it into position is the tricky part, since your vehicle's wiring, heater controls, and ductwork may be in the way. One of our vendors, RetroSound, offers with modern features on board and a versatile mounting system.

Unplugging the factory stereo If your vehicle has (or once had) a factory stereo, or if it was pre-wired with a 'stereo prep' package, there should be at least one plastic wiring harness behind the stereo opening. This plug connects the stereo to your vehicle's electrical system and the speakers. You will need to unplug the factory stereo from the wiring harnesses, and unplug the antenna to complete the removal process.

With the old radio out of the way, it's time to focus on the new one. That involves connecting all the wires and then installing the stereo in the dash.

These harnesses usually include a color-coded wiring diagram for connecting the harness to your new stereo. Your new stereo will also include a radio wiring diagram in the owner's manual. Refer to the two diagrams to confirm the car stereo wire colors that need to be connected to the adapter harness. The nice thing is that you can make these connections on a workbench, desk, or kitchen table without having to be inside the vehicle. If a harness is not available for your vehicle or if the factory stereo plug was cut off, you'll need to identify each of the car's stereo wires and connect them to the corresponding wires of your new stereo. If you purchased your new stereo from Crutchfield, our Tech Support team may be able to tell you the colors and functions of your car's wiring.

Options for connecting the wires You’ll need to fasten bare wires together, and there are few ways to do it:. Soldering creates a permanent, professional connection that ensures maximum current transfer. We strongly recommend that you use and a heat gun to insulate the soldered connection. Most purists prefer this method, because it’s the most secure and conductive connection for the wiring. offer a quick and secure twist-on connection for wires, and they can be re-used. It never hurts to have a couple of on hand for various jobs, too.

This is our favorite way to get strong connections fast. Crimping is fast and fairly simple. If you crimp the wires together, be sure to use the correct size crimp connector — typical in-dash stereo wires are 18-gauge, but a few use heavier gauge power and ground wires. There are several types of crimp connectors, including bullet connectors,.

NOTE: Avoid only taping the wires together — eventually the tape will dry out and fall off, exposing the wires and making it only a matter of time before something shorts out. Check out our to see these three methods in action. Power wires Usually, it is best to make all of the new stereo's wiring connections via the wiring harness, but if you have to make a direct power connection, you'll need to know the difference between 'switched' and 'constant' power:. A switched power source is only on when the ignition is keyed.

Connect your new stereo's main (switched) power lead – usually a red wire – to a switched power source, so that the stereo will turn off when you turn off the car, and not drain your vehicle's battery. A constant power source is always on.

Connect your new stereo's memory lead – usually a yellow wire – to a constant power source, so that you don't lose your radio station presets, tone control presets, and clock settings every time you turn off the vehicle. Although rare, a few high-powered stereos require you to make a direct constant power connection at the positive terminal of your vehicle's battery. This requires a heavier gauge power wire, an in-line fuse (usually included), and a ring terminal to connect the power wire to the battery clamp. You will have to route the power wire to the battery location, which is often through the vehicle firewall and into the engine compartment in order to make the connection at the battery. Speaker wires Car stereos have eight wires for the traditional 4-speaker system – a positive wire and a negative wire for the front left, front right, rear left, and rear right speakers.

Depending on the wiring configuration in your vehicle and the wiring harness adapter we offer, some of these may not be used. Ground wire A good ground connection is vital for proper stereo performance and to eliminate unwanted noise. If you are not using a custom wiring harness, look for a bare, unpainted bolt or screw that contacts the bare metal of your vehicle's chassis. Loosen the bolt, slip the ground wire underneath (this is almost always a black wire), then tighten the bolt. If your ground wire doesn't contact bare metal, your stereo won't operate. A loose or weak ground connection can result in signal noise interfering with your music.

In-dash video — tapping into the parking brake wire If your new stereo has a video monitor built in, you will also need to connect a wire to your emergency/parking brake wire. This wire acts as a switch to turn on the video monitor when the parking brake is engaged. This wire can be in different locations in different vehicles, depending on the brake configuration. Often, it's found at the base of the parking brake handle in many cars.

You’ll usually have to remove the center console to get to it. That’s not too hard, just take your time. And once again, Crutchfield's award-winning tech support team can be a big help in locating it.

Mounting the stereo in the dash If the original stereo was bolted into the dash, you might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of it and attach them to the sides of your new stereo. More likely, you will need a mounting kit to install the stereo. If a mounting kit is required, follow the instructions included with the kit.

Sometimes you install the kit in the dash, then slide the new stereo's metal mounting sleeve (if included) into the kit. Secure the metal sleeve by using a screwdriver to bend the sleeve's metal tabs into place. In other cases, you attach the mounting kit to the new stereo first, then secure both in the dash with screws.

If your vehicle has an upgraded version of the factory sound system (such as a Bose or Harman Kardon upgrade, for example) or an integrated stereo/climate control panel, you will probably need a special factory system wiring adapter in order to install a new stereo. An adapter allows you to use a new stereo with your existing speaker system. And you'll get it at a. This integration package lets you keep the factory LCD screen and touchscreen climate controls in select 2010 and up Ford Mustangs.

Once the dash opening is ready for the new stereo, hold the stereo near the opening. Connect the stereo wiring adapter to the vehicle's wiring harness and plug in the antenna cable. Depending on the stereo you choose, you’ll also need to connect various things to the rear of the stereo, such as the Bluetooth® microphone wire, a USB cable, steering wheel control interface, or an auxiliary input cable.

Check your work Slide the stereo into the dash opening, but don't fasten it down just yet. First, test the stereo to make sure everything is working properly. It's easier to fix a problem while everything is still exposed. Note: You'll have to reattach the battery cable in order to test the stereo, so if you disconnected any airbag warning plugs, be sure to reattach those before reconnecting the battery. Turn on the power and try each source (AM, FM, CD, USB, etc.). Then adjust the balance and fader settings to check that each speaker is working. Once you're sure the stereo is wired and working properly, finish securing it in the dash and reinstall any pieces of dash trim panel that you removed.

What about modifications? In some vehicles, you might have to make modifications to the dash opening or the area inside (what we refer to as the “dash substructure”) in order to install a new stereo. If this is the case for your vehicle, we’ll warn you about it when you’re shopping on our site, and also in your Crutchfield MasterSheet. And once again, don’t hesitate to call our tech support crew if you need any guidance. Ready to try it yourself? By now you should have some idea of what is involved in replacing your factory stereo with a new, better, aftermarket stereo.

So, it’s time to check out our, where you can tell us what kind of vehicle you have. From there, you'll be able to see the details about which stereos, speakers, and other gear will work with your vehicle and also see the installation gear you'll need to do the job right. And if you have questions, we’re ready for you. You can contact our Advisors via. Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield Posted on 5/7/2015 Anthony, When it comes to installation, every car is different. The good news is we have vehicle-specific MasterSheets available for purchase.

Just give us a call, and an advisor will be able to tell you if there's one for your specific LeSabre. If you bought your double-DIN from Crutchfield, you can call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Check out our for details.

Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield Posted on 6/8/2015 Ernie, without the knowing the details of either model, we can't say for sure, but there's the possibility that they could use the same harness. You could do an internet search for an image of your old stereo's wiring, or you could remove your old stereo and then compare the connections with your new one. If they match, wire the new radio to your old harness and test its functionality. If you'd like to be prepared in advance, give us a call to order the harness that fits your new stereo into your vehicle. Robert Ferency-Viars from Crutchfield Posted on 6/16/2015 Wally, if your Mercedes has the Bose system, then no, we don't have installation instructions.

But if you don't have the Bose system, then we DO have instructions. When you order your stereo, you can request the non-Bose instructions (they'll probably help a little), but be sure that you enter your vehicle as having the Bose system (if it does) because the two systems use different wiring harnesses. It might be best if you call us to place your order, so that you can explain your situation. And either way, if you order from us, you'll be able to call our Tech Support team before you begin the installation. They can help you figure out what to do.

Robert Ferency-Viars from Crutchfield Posted on 6/22/2015 Jessene, while the radio will likely fit in the opening just fine, the wiring connectors are completely different on those two trucks. You'll have have to hardwire the connections. While you might be able to make that nearly 30 year-old stereo work, your best bet is to purchase a new stereo. That way, you can use a wiring adapter that'll plug into your truck, without having to chop its wiring, and a mounting kit to give you a secure, clean installation. Plus, a new stereo will sounds a lot cleaner and better than that old Nissan radio AND you can get auxiliary and USB inputs, if you want.

Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield Posted on 7/20/2015 Deke, a vehicle-specific dash kit, wiring harness, and antenna adapter will make for a much easier installation, and the good news is we offer these items at a deep discount when you buy your car stereo from us. Integration modules will allow you to retain certain factory features that you may feel you need to keep. For a better understanding of how key these items are, check out, or give us a call at 1.888.955.6000 and an advisor can help you choose the gear that's right for you. Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield Posted on 7/22/2015 Rachel, has there ever been a radio in your Mustang, or was it never equipped with a sound package? One installation obviously will be very different than the other, since the latter requires the installation of speakers as well. Use our Vehicle Selector to input your vehicle information and then explore our category for speakers that won't require you cutting into your doors.

For any installation questions, note that if you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you can call Tech Support for free help. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Check out our for details. Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield Posted on 7/27/2015 Steve, I wouldn't advise cutting into your dash until you've settled on and are happy with a radio.

We haven't researched the '55 Chevy Pick-up, so we can't give you specifics on the layout of that dash and what may be behind the metal you're cutting into. If you're planning on adding a contemporary stereo to your dash, a single-DIN radio measures 7.08' x 2' and a double-DIN radio measures 7.08' x 4'. If you'd like a contemporary radio that matches the classic look of your dash, the is designed for 1954-59 Chevy trucks.

Ford Focus Stereo Replacement

RetroSound also offers comprehensive tech support to help you with the installation. Chris from forest lake Posted on 8/16/2015 I have a 2002 Cadillac Deville base model, that had the standard Dell Electronics factory stereo and factory Amp. I do not have a stereo connect/ harness and I am trying to ID the wiring color codes, I have my rear seat removed to visualize the Amp, door panels pulled to see the speakers but have had zero luck finding the switched pwr source even using my multi-meter. Is there something special about the 2002 Deville that I am missing, I can visually see the rear door speakers have a brown and white wire but when I test the same colored wires coming out of the stereo cavity I get nothing? Do I need to test the speakers at the signal in at the amp or the return/out.I need help?

Donald Cok from Grand Rapids Posted on 8/18/2015 I purchased a Pioneer DEH-X6700BT stereo. I purchase the Metra 70-8113 wiring harness.

When I connected all the wires to from the stereo harness to The Metra harness, there were a number of wires left over. I figured they were for the RCA plugs. When I connected everything, the stereo powered up fine but I get no sound. So I cut off the RCA plugs and connected the wires of both harnesses together. Still no sound. My 2002 toyota Highlander wire harness has like 20 pins. The metra harness has only 11 pins.

So I suspect I have the wrong harness. I cannot find one that looks the the 20 pin highlander harness. Do you have the correct harness for my Highlander? Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield Posted on 8/19/2015 Donald, if you have the factory JBL system, then you have the right harness, and it requires you to use all four pre-amp outputs on your new Pioneer stereo as well as connecting the stereo's amp remote wire to the amp remote wire on the harness. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you can call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. If your Highlander does not have the factory JBL system, then you do not have the right harness.

Barry Scott from kennesaw Posted on 9/7/2015 I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX.I purchased a car dvd stereo ( Kenwood DVD DDX371 ) from you about a year ago. I initially installed it into a 1997 Honda Accord, but had to remove it just recently. I purchased the Civic about a week ago and was trying to install it into the Civic today.I noticed there is a BIG gap on the opening of where the other stereo was in the instrument panel on the dash. Does Crutchfield have a nice plastic front that would cover the gap? Also, I need to order a wiring harness from you guys that will fit the 2001 Civic. The one that fit the Accord is too large.

Brynna from Round Rock Posted on Ok so i bought got a new car stereo for my daughters 1997 plymouth breeze. I did not unhook the negative on the battery. However, i removed the factory radio and connected everything to the new stereo and everything worked just fine.

I unhooked everything to mount the stereo but first decided to put on butt connectors or caps for the wires and when i went to hook everything back up it won't work. I also tried connecting the factory radio back up and it won't work. I have checked all the fuses and they are fine but i can't get either radio to work now. Is it b/c i didn't unhook the negative terminal of the batter and short circuited something? If so how do i begin to fix that?

If not the battery what else could it be. I will also say this, on the initial hookup of the new stereo i hooked the orange illumination wire to the ground wire and it worked, i wasn't sure what to do with those 2 b/c they didn't have a match to another wire.

I have tried unhooking those, etc but nothing is working.please help. Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield Posted on Brynna, yes, you should have disconnected the battery. It would appear you've blown a fuse. Check fuse #5 on the driver's side dash panel fuse box. It should be a 10 amp fuse which is likely blown. If fuse #5 is okay, check fuse #14 in the same location, also a 10 amp fuse. Also, be sure the black ground wire from the radio is going to chassis ground, or spliced to the braided metal ground strap that was attached to the stock radio chassis.

The orange wire on the adapter harness should be taped off, and not used at all. Hopefully, this helps. If not, you can get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Check out our for details. Brant from La Crosse, WI Posted on Thank you for this guide. I purchased a Metra LC-GMRC-01 Wiring Interface from Crutchfield for my 2004 Chevy Classic and installed a JVC CD player. I followed the wiring instructions.

10 days after hook up, car battery died. Charged it up, 10 days later, battery died.

Uninstalled CD player and wiring harness, car worked fine for several days. Re-installed CD player and next day battery was dead.

Took it to my mechanic. Battery and alternator tested fine. He did a battery drain test and found a serious, constant drain on the battery.

Uninstalled the CD player and wiring harness and the battery drain disappeared. What's wrong? When the CD player is installed it functions as it should. Turns off when ignition is off and door is opened. I did not use Posi-ProductT connectors, but instead used yellow winged wire connectors. Ali Partow from Los Ranchos Posted on 1/4/2016 I am waiting to receive my Sony MEX-GS810BH radio for replacing the OEM radio for my 99 BMW Z3 from Crutchfield.

I have looked at the installation wiring diagram for the radio and the wiring diagram for the receiver wiring adaptor (harness) coming free from Cruthchfield (1). The adaptor instruction (step 1b) cautions that adaptor illumination wire (orange) should not be connected to the receiver illumination wire if that is orange/white. The Sony wiring diagram shows the illumination wire to be orange/white striped. Does this really mean that I should not connect the two? And would that result in the radio having no illumination?

Alex Morris from Tuscaloosa, Alabama Posted on 2/2/2016 I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander, I have all of the parts put together to install my new stereo. The only problem that I am having is finding a place to ground the black wire. I see a metal insert where one of the screws that hold the stereo into place goes the only problem that I am having is that there is a plastic hole that the screw goes through before it goes to the metal and I would like to know if it is safe to ground the wire there. Matt from san diego Posted on 7/13/2016 10 years ago I would have never tried to change out a factory stereo. I just did last night night in about an hour. Not only did I save money, but I got the deck I wanted (plays flac!!) and the satisfaction of doing it myself.

I recommend to anyone to buy all the adapters, harnesses and add on's these guys provide, it will save a boat load of time. The only part I didn't figure out right away was bending the deck mount tabs, also I installed the deck upside down (d'oh!). I now know why they include the release keys. Dale from Monticello, IA Posted on I am considering a new vehicle (my present one is 11 years old).

It has a CD player and also a 'real' whip antenna for the AM and FM radio. The new vehicles all seem to have very short 'rods' for antennas or the 'shark fins'. My two concerns over a new vehicle: 1) I routinely listen to distant AM and FM stations in the old vehicle (200+ miles on AM, 50 to 100 miles on FM). I don't expect similar performance with these very small present-day antennas (and I have no interest in a subscription music service). How do I change out the antenna or add a 'real' one on the fender?

2) I want a CD changer/player in my new vehicle. Can I still get replacement radios with CD - I don't care about Bluetooth - unimportant to me.

Depending on exactly what you mean by “wiring a car radio without a harness,” there are a couple of different ways to work the problem. If you have the factory harness, but not the harness that came with your when it was new, then you can either buy an adapter—if one is available—or fabricate one yourself. If you have everything that came with the head unit, but someone, at some point, cut the factory harness out of the car, then all you have to do is identify the wires and solder in your head unit. On the other hand, if your head unit has no harness, and you’re dealing with bare wires in your car, that’s also something we can deal with. It won't be as easy as you might like, but it's still within the realm of possibility.

Let’s start with the easiest situation, and work up from there. Feel free to skip ahead to whichever solution actually applies to your situation. Wiring a Car Stereo With No Factory Harness This is actually a pretty common situation. Even though head unit harness adapters exist that allow for plug-and-play, it’s relatively common for installers to simply cut out the factory harness and solder in the head unit harness during install.

If that head unit is removed at a later date, you’re left with bare wires. Or if you just want to, you’re forced to cut the aftermarket harness out and start from scratch. While it may seem daunting to look into your dash and see a wild tangle of wires, this is a pretty easy problem to deal with.

If you can’t find that information online, or you would rather just do things the old fashioned way, figuring out which wires do what is a very straightforward process. With a like a test light, multimeter, and maybe a 1.5V battery, you can get everything sorted out in just a few minutes. For more information on how to correctly identify the mess of car stereo wires in your dash, check out our. Wiring a Car Stereo With No Head Unit Harness This is a more complicated issue that may actually require some fabrication. If you can track down a new, or even used, harness, that’s always going to be the easiest solution. Barring the availability of a new harness, you may be able to find a used one from a local wrecking yard or used parts outlet.

If you aren't able to locate a replacement harness for your car stereo, then you're going to have your work cut out for you. The first thing you’ll need to do is obtain a pinout diagram for your head unit. The best way to find this is to get the model number of the head unit off the label and then run an Internet search. Even if the manufacturer doesn’t provide adequate documentation, you may be able to find pinout information on a forum or elsewhere. If you can’t find pinout data for the head unit, that’s pretty much a deal breaker. Fabricating a New Head Unit Wiring Harness If you can find the pinout data, then you’ll need to use it to fabricate a new harness. The best way to do this is to obtain something called a “rectangular connector” sized to fit your head unit.

In most cases, what you’ll need is a two-row rectangular header connector with a female socket that is a “through hole” mount type. This type of connector is designed to be installed on a circuit board, but it will also work in a pinch as the foundation of a replacement car stereo harness. You may be unable to find a connector with the correct pin spacing and the correct number of pins. While the pin spacing is important, the number of pins isn’t. You can either use multiple smaller connectors or cut down a large one to fit, whichever works best. Once you have found a pinout diagram and obtained a rectangular connector, all you have to do is solder wires to each of the pins on the connector and then put heat shrink on each wire to prevent shorts. If your car still has its factory harness, then there are two ways you can complete the installation.

Either obtain an adapter that’s designed to plug into the harness—or fabricate one the same way you did with the one for your head unit. You can also just cut the wires and connect them directly to your new harness, although that will just shift new problems onto the next person who tries to upgrade the stereo. Wiring a Car Stereo with No Harnesses at All If your head unit doesn’t have a harness, and someone cut the harness out of your car as well, then you’ll have to do a combination of the above methods. The first step is still to obtain a pinout for your head unit and fabricate a new harness for it. After that, you’ll have to identify all of the wires in the dash to determine which ones are for the speakers, power, ground, and so on. Since there is no factory harness in the picture, you have to options to consider. You can either fashion a new harness for the factory wires that will plug into your head unit harness, or solder your head unit harness directly to the factory wires.